SULU PROVINCE: A Misunderstood Paradise

It was a great Saturday morning. All I could remember from the night prior to the trip was the great anxiety I have upon leaving Zamboanga City Port. All I did was held on to the bed. Good thing I have a companion with me to share the feeling.

Sulu Provincial Capitol near the Jolo-Patikul municipal boundaries. It is also located near the Sulu State College. 

Everything was planned on February 2016, when Ate Ien Lim, a great friend of mine and an awesome traveler from Metro Manila, opened up that she wants to go to Sulu. I was very eager to complete all 27 Mindanaoan provinces, and only the island provinces of Sulu and Tawi-Tawi are standing in my way, so I agreed to join her on such travel. We initially planned it on July 2016 and wait for the date when the Id'l Fitr Holiday of the Muslims would be declared. I also have a college batchmate and good friend working at Jolo Branch of a nationally known bank. He was our contact for the Jolo trip, which made us comfortable of pursuing the trip.

Somewhat in May 2016, we projected the Id'l Fitr would fall on July 8th, a Friday, after several researches as to the possible date of the holiday. Although the results of the researches reveal July 6-7 as the possible dates, but we assume that the holiday be moved on Friday with confidence.

All was set, but when the Malacanan Palace declared July 6th (a Wednesday) as the national day for the observance of Id'l Fitr instead of July 8th, followed by the fact that my college friend (Remond is his name) has a work related seminar at Zamboanga City at the same date, we were in despair. I doubt of even filing for a leave on the 8th. I'ved almost decided not to push the trip but I thought further that Ate Ien had already booked her flight bound for Mindanao and was costly in her part to cancel the trip. So I decided to push through the trip. I contacted Remond on how to pursue the trip and he gave me another contact, Kuya Jerry -  his close friend.

I left my hometown on the evening of July 7, and Ate Ien and I met at the Cagayan de Oro West Bound Terminal near 12 midnight, and we rode a bus headed for Zamboanga City. It was a 12 hour trip, passing through the provinces of Lanao del Norte, Zamboanga del Sur, and Zamboanga Sibugay, and reaching Zamboanga City past 12 noon. Ate Ien and I went for a stroll around Zamboanga City before heading to the City Port. We went to the port by 4pm, and hurriedly rode to the boat MV Mama Mia, which would deliver us to Jolo on Saturday morning.

The Jolo Port upon arrival from Zamboanga City on a Saturday morning.

By 4am of July 9th, a Saturday, I can already hear the Islamic prayers coming from Jolo. I know for the fact that we are nearing Jolo Port, as the blogs I previously read speaks of such greeting once nearing Jolo. MV Mama Mia finally landed on Jolo Port approximately 10-5 minutes before 5am. Remond told me not to go down to the port when the Sun has not yet risen for some reasons. I told Ate Ien about this and we waited until 5:45am when the Sun is now partially visible in the sky. I contacted Kuya Jerry and we have finally set foot at Sulu, my 42nd province of #The81Challenge I set for myself.

Sulu is a province composed of may island groups, with Jolo Island as the major and largest island where 11 municipalities of the provinces are found. The province has a total area of 1,6004.0 sq.m. Jolo is the designated capital and largest municipality of the province. It is bounded on the northeast by the Province of Basilan, to the north and northwest by the huge Sulu Sea, in the southwest by the Province of Tawi-Tawi, and to the south and southeast by the Celebes Sea. Sulu is the home of 824,731 residents, majority of which are living in the Municipality of Jolo. The province is under the Autonomous Region in Muslim Mindanao (ARMM), with the regional center at Cotabato City. The nearest major Philippine city is Zamboanga City, which is an 8-9 hour boat ride from Jolo.

We had our breakfast in a karenderia in Jolo town proper. After that, we went to Camp Asturias, where the Peacekeepers' Inn is located. The inn was well maintained with armed personnel and accommodating staff.

Selfie in from of Peacekeepers' Inn, Camp Asturias, Jolo, Sulu with my travel buddy - Ate Ien.

The first spot we visited following our arrival in Jolo is the Jolo Airport, in which only private planes and helicopters are using. Such aerial vehicles can reach Zamboanga City for only 25 mnutes (the overnight boat ride from Zamboanga City to Jolo is about 8-9 hours). It is said that the Jolo Airport is often bombed.

Jolo Airport Welcome Marker

Next in the itinerary is the Sulu Provincial Capitol (provincial capitols are a must see everytime I go on different provinces). The capitol is located near the Sulu State College and is Islam inspired, considering that 97% of the population are Tausugs who embraced Islam as their religion.

Sulu Provincial Capitol in Jolo, Sulu

We then headed to what the locals refer as the Peacekeepers' Inn, which is within Camp Asturias. There we bathe, changed clothes and charged our gadgets for the long day of exploring Jolo and nearby towns.

We were introduced with various Tausug delicacies - with the famous TILUYA ITUM, a spicy beef soup which is so delicious and enticing considering I don't eat spicy foods.

Various delicacies of Sulu, which are delicious.

Tiluya Itum - the famous Tausug delicacy which is a spicy beef soup. A must try while in Sulu.

I have to admit, despite Tiluya Itum's "blackish" appearance, it is super duper yummy!! As we finished our lunch, we thanked the owners of the karenderia and while we thanked them, we saw them preparing another delicacy - PASTIL. I know you probably heard many foods which sounds alike (the Pastel of Camiguin, the Pastil of Iligan City). But Sulu's Pastil is similar to the ensaymada we love. The difference is that monggo sprouts are used as filling.

Raw Sulu Pastil for baking once the Monggo Sprouts are filled inside.

Monggo Sprouts for the Pastil filling.

After the heavy lunch, we headed straight to a place where Kuya Jerry and his friends, Ate Ien, and I had conversations about various topics, from the Sulu way of life until the Mindanaoan islands as a whole. We had learned many things about the Tausugs and their way of life, how they spend their daily lives and strive to survive. They shared their personal insights about the island life.

After the afternoon chat, we went to the nearest town outside Jolo - the Municipality of Patikul.

Welcome marker of Patikul, Sulu

I never knew that the locals of Jolo and Patikul enjoys the white beach located in the town. Mauboh Beach is a long stretch of white sand with clear blue waters of the Sulu Sea while facing the island municipality of Hadji Panglima Tahil.

The famed Mauboh Beach of Patikul, Sulu

I only took some photos of the beach so that the locals will enjoy more soaking themeselves against the afternoon heat. We then went back to Jolo, passing the different Tausug haouses and mosques.

The Sulu trip wouldn't be complete without souvenirs, and where can I find more of it than in the Joo Barter (just like in Zamboanga City, Basilan, and Tawi-Tawi). Here one can find the different products of Sulu and other nearby places, including those from the Republic of Malaysia.

Jolo Barter near the Jolo Port.

Welcome Marker of Jolo, Sulu near the Jolo Port.

After buying some Sulu Souvenirs, we went back to Peacekeepers' Inn and checked out as we are going back to Zamboanga City taking another overnight boat trip tonight. We bid goodbye to the staff and the military personnel there. While on our way back to the port, we passed by the Jolo Plaza, in which one can find the huge Our Lady of Mount Carmel Cathedral (3% of Sulu's provincial population are Christians and Christian minorities).

The largest mosque of Sulu Province is the majestic MASJID TULAY (Tulay Mosque) located at the heart of Jolo.

MASJID TULAY - The largest mosque in Sulu Province

Sun is setting down and Ate Ien and I are now back at Jolo Port. We thanked Kuya Jerry for the trip and guidance in Jolo and Patikul. We may not have covered much ground in Sulu because of some reasons, but overall, out stay was peaceful and fun. Fun in the sense that the nervousness we felt was replaced with contentment and more desire to return.

Jolo Port aboard MV Mama Mia bound for Zamboanga City

It was a great experience, stepping in the Philippines' most feared province. I have to admit, fear engulfed me alongside anxiety and nervousness. As I stepped back at the boat and bidding Kuya Jerry goodbye, I realized that Sulu is just like any other province, striving towards a progressive future and to be known not just because of negative publicity but also for their treasured beaches and resources. Ate Ien and I will be embarking on another 8-9 hours of maritime travel but we know and now fully understood the misunderstood province of Sulu.

I really do hope Sulu's situation will improve, and tourism might be feasible and viable in the province. Thank you for the experience Sulu! My 42nd province.

SULU PROVINCE TRIP
July 8-10, 2016